Kit Hamlin

The opening collection by Kit Hamlin feels like a deep meditation on formal attire’s place in a progressive world. If you squint a bit, you can see the old: dresses, suits, vests, trousers. But the bespoke style is traded for a modern playfulness in the form of slouchy silhouettes, billowing cravats, and ruffled cuffs, and articles of clothing that end much quicker than anticipated. This departure from the classical is punctuated by fabrics that almost poke fun at our expectations; Where you expect light linen, you get chiffon, patterned wool becomes brocade, and silk becomes satin. And of course, the entire collection is held together by a rejection of the old binary for an ebbing and flowing spectrum of surf greens and rose golds that say “This world is far from black and white, and we are no longer discerned by baby blues and pinks“.

Presley Church

The crossroads between sport and fashion will often spark up in big ways, whether it be the inspiration Ralph Lauren found in polo, SZA’s popularization of football and hockey garb, or the weirdly cyclical trendiness of tennis. With our latest obsession stemming from the film Challengers (2024), I’d say Presley Church is striking while fashion’s relationship with sports is on everyone’s minds. Church’s collection Luminary mirrors the ambition of the athletes who inspire it by making uncommon silhouettes look so effortless and freeing. It’s impressive to create clothing that is elegant yet exuding comfort all in the face of the ubiquitous skin-tight silhouetting of Lululemon. (See more of Presley Church’s work here!)

Ashe Cain

The next collection is a sharp digression into a world of vivid color and harsh geometry. The viewer may be reminded of the vibrant sheen of proud birds (and perhaps their cages). The charcoal shirtdress holds sharp vertical lines that cut across the chest, allowing horizontal lines of ruffles to fall down with only a peek of the modest amaranth – understated and controlled. Contrast this with the white shirtdress, which now utilizes the movement of ruffles to unleash exotic hues as the fabric moves with the model. The two duotone dresses don’t sacrifice any of these elements either! Billowing textured navy pants reach up to a color-matched diamond across a midriff of violet. The ornate teal and pear layer upon each other in the most feathered texture yet – with bleach white furs to further invoke the collection’s animalistic bend. (Find more of her work here!)

Allyria McBride

Despite only showcasing one outfit, I believe that Allyria Mcbride successfully represents her spring collection’s label Coming back to Earth. Maybe it’s my acid flashbacks flaring back up again, but when I look at this fit I see delicate, white linens billowing on a clothing line clashing against a cloud-spotted blue sky – like a coquette take on a Miyazaki landscape. The corset is a lovely cornflower blue with white lacing, all of which was repurposed from recycled fabric. The maxi skirt, cut and sewn with layers of beautiful floral laces, also uses repurposed fabric from a local sustainability-focused art supplies store called Turnip Green. The jewelry is also hand-made by Mcbride and utilizes a myriad of textured beads, contrasting materials, all employing colors and motifs inspired by nature.

Benson King

Denim is a staple of American fashion, most notably in the world of the blue-collar workman (laborers nicknamed after the fabric, of course) and eventually into that of the white-collar. There is really no place where denim cannot be found and that is especially true at a fashion show which highlights sustainability. The outfit designed by Benson King takes advantage of denim’s ubiquity with various secondhand jeans being cut and sewn into an incredibly fun and flowy double-slit maxi dress. I love the detail of the distressed portion of the jeans being patched instead of avoided. It takes the rugged, worn-in nature of the material and contrasts it with the delicate form of the dress with precise execution.

Jeremiah Crosswhite

Who doesn’t like a nice modern play on old school Americana? These next two looks have plenty of 50’s flair but with a modern androgynous bend – yassified Norman Rockwell. The solid black dress shirt with its wide camp collar is giving bowling shirt or greaser garb. The bee print high-rise shorts are a little “Go-to-Hell” preppy which helps add to the nostalgic trip in a unique manner. And how about this 50’s boilersuit / 60s jumpsuit hybrid!? Beautiful navy denim, groovy zipper neckline, short sleeves, and wide pants – I’m about to reach out for a bespoke version for myself! (Check out more of his work here!)

Deniz Hur

If this collection’s moxie and risqué are starting to ring some bells, then you might remember Deniz Hur’s collection at VFW 2023. This time, the seams are shorter and the denim is blacker, but Hur is still dabbling with perverting the hints of office attire (skirt and tie) with punk/gothic grit. Despite each outfit consisting of what, 6 oz. of fabric?, this collection still finds ways to layer and create interesting movement across the models. Daring zippers and suggestive hook and eyelet piercings provide plenty of flirtation with the hardware of BDSM culture as well. (Check out more of Deniz’ work right over here!)

Jaidyn Harden

If you needed a reminder that grunge is not dead, Jaidyn Harden’s got you covered, because these two looks feel like they were dragged out of 90’s Seattle and given a facelift. I love that subtle modernizing in both outfits, the first featuring two-tone, highly textured, ripped-to-high-heavens jeans, patchwork sling bag reminiscent of Engineered Garments, all styled with Yeezy Desert boots and a collegiate tee to bring it on home. The second outfit trades the stacks for rips and beautiful tobacco-stained threads. Jaidyn also sneaks in a fun high-waist / crop top combination via the jeans doubled, mismatched waistband – a really great way to style a bold design. I also dig the shirts representation of the fight between the modern (adidas tee) and the vintage (mustang graphic). Many of the designers at VFW seem to grapple with inspiration from the past while designing for the present, and doing so in this grungier look allows for a more direct (and still effective) approach.

Madelow

Vintage consignee, curation, and collaboration shop Madelow makes another triumphant return to VFW, this time showcasing a sportier approach. Starting with a look that’s one flip phone away from being Killa Cam-worthy, we find a full workwear ensemble: a repurposed Carhartt hooded jacket and pants, both dyed a blazing hot pink. Pairing this with a mesh undershirt, and the construction site won’t be the only place you’re turning heads. Our second look once again repurposes macho workwear for a more city boy approach: realtree camo pants and a graphic long sleeve that I would bet good money is printed in-house. Both looks act as a synopsis for the type of procurements these Nashville locals have to offer.

Isabel Heuer

The designer of this collection mentioned in a short summary of her work that she likes to “prioritizes play and joy”, so I don’t believe she would be offended if I said – in the nicest possible way – this collection reminds me of toppling wedding cakes. The first look is a white miniskirt with pink accent and lacing which leads to billowing sleeves of varying fabrics, like two massive stacks of cake pops falling off a dinner table. The next look sports a beautiful baby shower blue with a slanted, laced hem and two billowing hearts at the waist. Not at all messy (very clean, in fact) but perhaps the cake is just beginning to tip. The third outfit showcases a complex, truly gorgeous rippling pant almost reminiscent of Young Thug’s iconic Jeffery dress. The movement as the model steps appears to sway hypnotically and pairs very well with the monochromatic crop top and heel combination. The final look rings in as the collection’s most wedding-esque, with an all-white colorway, rippling silhouette reminiscent of piped frosting and clean white bodice topped with a unique offset choker-style cut of fabric – Anyone else hungry? (See more of Isabel’s stunning work here!)

siristudios

Without reading the designer’s statement of this collection, I would have worried about the feelings this collection initially invoked within me: vulnerability and sexuality are on display, but so are tensions, tattering, and decay. Siristudio has expressed a desire to explore social issues, sexuality, and sustainability through their collection, which I believe is done here expertly. Each outfit seems to show varying levels of sexual nature coming to fruition, whether it’s cloaked in darkness with nudity peeking out of panty-shaped fabrics and laces, or sprouting – literally ripping at the seams – from the bright red-lipped cocoon, or the stage of full actualization, standing proud amongst the risqué, panty-esque minidress. This collection could be read as less positive, maybe even in a legitimately dark manner – but that is the beauty of good art. This collection makes it immediately clear it has something (or many things) to say, and it does it with beautiful, inspired execution.

LOVESICK

A large and diverse collection of garments is presented by the made-to-order brand LOVESICK by Liz Diachenko, which is most strongly connected in its collaborative nature, sustainable ethos, and distinctive charm. I mean, I’ve never met a gym shirt I didn’t turn sleeveless, but I would have never thought to dress it up with its provocative granny’s-linens-turned-provocative-maxi-skirt the way this collection does. I particularly love the cowpoke diva fit, with its curvaceous cowhide top and gingham-esque trousers. While it can be difficult to tell where a garment’s repurposed fabric came from, it is much easier to tell if it was properly reworked – the minidresses are clearly made with proper skill and creativity (with yet another dress designed to remind me how much I hate going to the office – someone do something fun with my tie collection!). The final piece seems to consist of a dyed lace skirt paired with a zip-up tapestry jacket that I truly love. The pixelated image adds so much texture to the top while still remaining subdued by its black and white color palate.

Ava Gottschlich

Coming in with perhaps the show’s most coquette collection, Ava Gottschlich’s Fantaisie puts femininity and hints of its history at the front and center; each garment seems to be inspired by a myriad of feminine undergarments used throughout history. The first dress feels the most modern, both in silhouette and material – but even this dress seems to nod to yesteryear with a very subtle and subdued ruff. The open back features minimal lacing tied together with extra fabric from the dress, a little detail that adds to the truly unique design. The next outfit is giving a pinafore-turned-romper that trades the apron-top for an elegant low-scoop neck. The ruffled hems further send home an unignorable, historical feel. I particularly love the next look which is like a modern, provocative take on the old chemise: comfortable and seductive with a nod to the timeless. Our final “sexy trad-wife” outfit features a lovely bright white stay with a denim-blue hem and tulles paired with a matching linen skirt rounding out a wonderful study in femininity. (See more of Ava’s work here!)

rag & bone

Rag & Bone is a nationwide retailer. I’m not writing free advertising for them, but check out the Vandy students doing their thing!

Fabiola Soavelo

It is entirely possible that this designer took VFW’s tagline “The Future of Fashion” too literally – Fabiola Soavelo’s Fihavanana looks like it’s fresh off the set of the newest installment of Bladerunner. Bold silhouettes, robust indigos, and deep leathers combine effortlessly into 4 cohesive, showstopping outfits. The first model is sporting a lovely draping jacket paired with leather pants that drip with texture in a way reminiscent of Doja Cat’s wet dress at the 2024 Met Gala. It’s hard to tell what the blue top and bucket hat are made of, but they are uniquely beautiful nonetheless. This mystery fabric seems to make another appearance in the next look – now appearing more like dyed corduroy – this time in a truly alien silhouette that’s almost giving Dragon Ball Z (praise). The pants feature a lovely contrast stitch at the legs that add another flourish without over-complicating the look. Next, we find a green slate leather jacket that is honestly to die for – we’re talking futuristic biker, like Akira or Mad Max. Once again, paired with a very fun, unique pant that I would reckon showcases Madagaly inspiration as stated by the designer’s personal statement. The fourth and final look finishes a little more down to earth but is no less well-done. Upcycled gorp-core is far less common in these shows than you’d think and Soavelo proves it’s a worthwhile endeavor. (Check out more of Fabiola’s work here!)

Thank you to Vanderbilt Fashion Week for supplying the photography and playbill for this event, and of course thank you for bringing such a unique to Nashville!